IN THE MOOD FOR CHANGE

TEETH MAGAZIN • Paris Fashionweek Backstage Special

words • Desislava Todorova
Illustrations • Roman Serra
Photographs • Detlef Honigstein & Timmi Taubenschreck

We ponder the idea if transformation in fashion is essential to the creation of innovation. One fashion transforms into another until we realise everything new is a well re-invented old. In nature as in fashion, this is mostly related to seasonal change – change of temperatures, change of colours, change of silhouettes, change of mood. If bright pastels and greens were ruling the catwalks last season, this year’s round of spring/summer shows have shown us that the future belongs to those who are daring – prints, doodles, patterns, stripes and checks.

If anything, fashion turned on its head when “banned” by fashion-savvy people over saturation of branding like the Burberry check exploded into a symphony of textures and various combinations. Or not? Branded culture obsessed millennials have already happily braced lower price point versions like JW Anderson’s Uniqlo collaboration (we’ve all seen the beige mac at least 10 times each on average!).

What’s curious for this upcoming season is the unintended sophistication of traditional takes on heritage and craftsmanship. While London embraced streetwear to its fullest, Paris gave us a whiff of elegance, tipping on its thigh-high boots which we saw in numerous shows. The 1980s are still in the picture and somehow caught up in this momentum of vinyl fuschia glory.

Good luck with the monochrome preferences out there – this time belongs to maximalism. London College of Fashion designer Roman Serra illustrates his vision on what makes fashion transformative.

Detlef Honigstein